能登半島の旅:Noto Peninsula – A Journey Through Beauty and Resilience

 (English Below)

能登半島を一周する旅は、日本の美しさと人々の強さを同時に感じる特別な体験でした。もし日本を訪れる機会があれば、ぜひ能登半島を訪れてほしいと思います。
この地域の魅力は、まず何と言っても自然の美しさです。特に、能登半島最北端にある禄剛崎灯台では、大きく広がる日本海の景色を見渡すことができます。どこまでも広がる青い海からは、能登ならではの開放感を感じられます。


一方で、この地域は 2024年の能登半島地震の影響を受けました。地震から2年半がたった現在も、実際に訪れると復旧途中の道路や被害の跡を見ることがあります。白米千枚田へ向かう道路も震災の被害を受けましたが、つい最近復旧したため、美しい棚田を見ることができました。棚田とは、山の斜面につくられた階段状の田んぼのことです。

それでも、それ以上に印象的だったのは、前向きに日常を取り戻そうとする人々の姿でした。
輪島朝市は、朝に開かれる伝統的な市場で、新鮮な海産物や地元の特産品が並ぶ、能登を代表する観光名所です。
震災やその後の豪雨によって本来の輪島朝市通りが大きな被害を受けたため、現在はスーパーの食品売り場の奥の屋内スペースで出張朝市を開いています。スーパーにずらりと朝市の露店が並び、干物や野菜、手作りの工芸品が販売されています。
大変な中でも商売を続ける地元の人々との温かい交流を楽しむことができます。私は記念に、うさぎの柄が美しい輪島箸と、手作りのかわいい風車を買いました。
ちょうど七夕の時期だったため、朝市に「能登半島の未来に希望の光がありますように」と書かれた短冊が飾られていました。七夕は、日本で7月7日に行われる伝統行事で、願い事を短冊(細長い紙)に書いて笹に飾ります。

「友達がたくさん金沢へ引っ越してしまい、寂しい。」と話していた高校生や、自宅が全壊してしまった方など、何人かの方とお話しする機会がありました。
また、近くの仮設住宅で、親子3人が布団を並べて暮らしている女性の方にもお会いしました。もう高齢なため、一緒に住む息子さんが冬は雪かきをしてくれるので助かると話してくださいました。朝市では、高齢になっても多くの女性が活躍しておられました。
自宅が無事だった方の中には、ガレージを改装した小さな店など、地域に密着した店が生まれているそうです。地震で失われた機能やつながりを自分たちの手で取り戻そうとする取り組みです。持ち帰りやすいようにお米を1kg単位で販売したり、足の不自由な住民のために送迎を行うなど、地域を支える取り組みも広がっています。
現地の方々はとても温かく、訪れる人を歓迎してくれます。旅を通して感じたのは、「訪れること」そのものが地域の応援につながるということです。観光を楽しみながら、その土地の復興を支えることができるのは、とても意味のある体験だと思いました。

Written by Ritsuko Sensei

Written by Ritsuko Sensei

ENGLISH VERSION

Travelling around the Noto Peninsula was a special experience that allowed me to feel both the magnificent natural beauty of Japan and the strength of its people. If you ever have the chance to visit Japan, I truly hope you will visit the Noto Peninsula.

The greatest charm of this area is, above all, the beauty of its nature. In particular, from Rokkosaki Lighthouse at the northernmost tip of the Noto Peninsula, you can look out over the vast Sea of Japan. The endless blue sea gives you a unique sense of openness that only Noto can offer.

However, this area was affected by the 2024 Noto Peninsula Earthquake. Even now, two and a half years after the earthquake, you may still see roads under repair or traces of the damage. The road leading to Shiroyone Senmaida was also damaged by the earthquake but was recently restored, so I was able to see the beautiful terraced rice fields. Terraced rice fields are step-like rice paddies built on a mountain slope.

Even so, what left an even stronger impression on me was the sight of people trying to move forward and regain their everyday lives.

Wajima Morning Market is a traditional morning market where fresh seafood and local specialties are sold. It is one of Noto’s most famous tourist spots.

Since the original Wajima Morning Market Street was severely damaged by the earthquake and subsequent heavy rains, the market is currently being held as a temporary morning market at the back of a supermarket’s food section. Rows of lively stalls fill the supermarket space, offering everything from dried fish and local vegetables to handmade traditional crafts.

Visitors can enjoy warm interactions with local people who continue their businesses despite difficult circumstances. I bought a pair of beautiful Wajima chopsticks with a rabbit pattern and a cute handmade pinwheel as souvenirs.

Since it was around the time of Tanabata, there was a wish strip displayed at the morning market that said, “May there be a light of hope for the future of the Noto Peninsula”. Tanabata is a traditional Japanese event held on July 7, when people write their wishes on strips of paper called “tanzaku” and hang them on bamboo branches.

I had the opportunity to speak with a few people, including a high school student who told me, “Many of my friends have moved to Kanazawa, so I feel lonely,” and residents whose homes had been destroyed.

I also met a woman living in a nearby temporary housing unit, where she and two family members sleep with their futons lined up side by side. She told me that because she is already elderly, she felt deeply grateful for her son, who lives with her and helps shovel snow in the winter. Looking around the morning market, I saw so many women, even in their later years, still working actively and full of energy.

I also heard that among those whose homes were not damaged, some have started small community-based shops, such as stores renovated from garages. These are efforts to restore, with their own hands, the functions and connections that were lost in the earthquake. Local support initiatives are also spreading, such as selling rice in easy-to-carry one-kilogram portions and providing transportation for residents who have difficulty walking.

The local people were very warm and welcoming to visitors. Through this trip, what I felt most was that the simple act of visiting can itself become a form of support for the region. Being able to enjoy sightseeing while also supporting the place’s recovery made my experience feel deeply meaningful.

                                                                                                                                                  (Translated by Thanh Van)